Mar 5, 2025
Education

What Is Horween Leather? A Durable Classic You Need to Know

Discover why Horween leather is a top choice for premium craftsmanship, renowned for its unmatched durability and rich patina, and how it elevates high-quality leather goods—from wallets and boots to pipe bags and wrist braces.

Horween Leather

If you’ve been searching for high-quality, durable leather goods, you’ve probably come across boots, wallets, belts, and even watch straps made from Horween leather. And the reason is simple: this type of leather is a top choice for fine craftsmanship. Known for its durability and luxurious feel, Horween leather has been an artisan favorite for over a century.

This type of leather is so popular that its applications go far beyond fashion. Just to give you an example, Horween leather is even used to craft NFL footballs and NBA basketballs!

But what makes Horween leather so special? Is it worth the investment? In this article, we’ll explain what Horween leather is and why it might be the best option for your leather goods.

What is Horween Leather?

“Horween leather” refers to a range of high-quality leathers produced by the Horween Leather Company in Chicago, Illinois. If you’re wondering why some leathersmiths and companies specify the origin of their leather, it’s because it assures potential customers that their products are made from proven, top-quality leather.

For instance, skilled leathersmith

Dave Hauser

, who has spent over two decades mastering custom leather craftsmanship, describes Horween leather as “one the best tanned leather hides produced in the U.S.”

A Glimpse into Horween Leather Company

The

Horween Leather Company

is an American business specializing in the production of leather, processing hides from start to finish. With nearly

120 years of experience

and five generations of expertise, the company has been renowned for its dedication to traditional techniques, using only the finest materials to craft high-quality leather.

Founded in 1905, the company is one of the oldest tanneries in the United States.

What sets

Horween Leather Company

apart is its commitment to quality over quantity. As Hauser explains, Horween hides are truly “made to order,” not just a simple click-and-buy.

By working on a made-to-order basis, the company carefully oversees every step of the tanning process by hand, ensuring the best possible results for its leather. This extensive process makes Horween leather higher in quality, but also more expensive than mass-produced alternatives.

Horween Leather Company

What is Horween Leather Made Of?

Depending on the type, Horween leather can be sourced from cowhide, horsehide, and, though less common, calf and bison hides. For example,

Horween Leather Company

's flagship variety, Chromexcel, is made from cowhide, while its Shell Cordovan is crafted from horsehide.

The

Horween Leather Company

is also known for its rigorous hide selection process. Each hide undergoes careful inspection to ensure it meets the company’s high-quality standards. Additionally, this leather company uses traditional tanning processes, such as vegetable tanning and combination tanning, to create durable leather with a luxurious appearance.

What's Special about Horween Leather?

There are many reasons to choose Horween leather over mass-produced options. This luxury leather is known for its durability, texture, water resistance, sustainability, and ability to age beautifully. Let’s explore the key characteristics that set Horween leather apart:

Durability

According to

Rick Capps

, one of our expert leathercrafters, Horween leather stands out as a premium choice for its impressive durability and ability to maintain its color over time.

In addition to traditional tanning processes, the

Horween Leather Company

adds a blend of waxes and oil to their leathers. This additional step significantly extends the life span of Horween leathers. Most Horween leather goods can last for decades, which reduces the need for frequent replacements, making them a cost-effective and sustainable investment.

Appearance

Another relevant aspect of Horween leather is its luxurious appearance and softer feel. When compared to mass-produced leathers, many customers say Horween leather offers a premium in-hand experience with a superior visual and tactile quality.

Thanks to its waxy surface, Horween leather has an impressive aging process, developing a rich patina over time that adds a unique touch to your leather goods.

Horween Leather

Water Resistance

While Horween leathers are not waterproof, they are more water-resistant than other types of leather. Thanks to their high oil and wax content, these high-quality leathers can handle some exposure to water without noticeable damage. That said, your Horween leather shouldn't get completely saturated. To extend its lifespan, always wipe off excess water after exposure.

Sustainability

Horween leather is also a great alternative if you’re interested in sustainable leather goods. The

Horween Leather Company

selects hides only from animals harvested for their meat, saving a byproduct of the meat industry. Additionally, Horween leathers are handcrafted by skilled artisans, so their production helps preserve traditional craftsmanship.

Many Horween leathers are also vegetable-tanned. Unlike chrome tanning, which is commonly used in the leather industry, vegetable tanning uses natural materials instead of heavy metals. This eco-friendly process makes both the production and disposal of vegetable-tanned Horween leather less harmful to the environment.

Types of Horween Leather

Although Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan are the most popular Horween leathers, there are a few other variations worth exploring:

Chromexcel:

Developed by Isadore Horween in 1911, Chromexcel is the flagship product of the Horween Leather Company. This luxury leather stands out for its semi-firm feel and rich pull-up effect, with full aniline and hand-rubbed finishes.

Shell Cordovan:

Made from horse rump, this premium Horween leather is vegetable-tanned for a natural finish. Shell Cordovan leather is carefully hand-dyed to create a rich aniline finish and hand-glazed to achieve a glossy look.

Essex:

Essex is a vegetable-tanned cow leather known for its high oil content, durability, and versatility. This Horween leather is softer than other vegetable-tanned leathers and can be used to create a wide variety of leather goods.

Latigo:

A firm, hybrid-tanned leather popular for its beautiful tight grain. This premium leather is ideal for high-end leather goods, such as straps, belts, and stiff leather bags.

Dublin:

This Horween leather is similar to the Essex variety. However, Dublin leather contains additional natural waxes that create a smoother, more polished surface.

Looking for high-quality leather goods? Let’s explore our top favorites.

Popular Custom-Made Items Crafted with Horween Leather

As expert leathersmith

Dave Hauser

explains, Horween leather has long been a favorite for high-end leather goods, particularly smaller items like shoes, boots, purses, wallets, watch straps, and belts. Despite its high cost, Horween leather remains a top choice for customers seeking leather goods made from the best of the best, says Hauser.

Here are some popular, high-quality goods made from Horween leather:

Roll-up Pipe Bags

Roll-up Pipe Bags Horween Leather by Dragonthorn Leatherworks

Dragonthorn Leatherworks

,

Dave Hauser

’s global brand, stands out for its commitment to creating unique, bespoke leather goods tailored to each customer’s needs and preferences. An example of this is its Horween leather roll-up pipe bags, ideal for passionate pipe smokers and collectors.

Roll-up Pipe Bags Horween Leather Dragonthorn Leatherworks

According to Hauser, customers can also request variations of these bags, such as jewelry cases, cigar bags, and pocket knife roll-up bags, just to name a few examples. Hauser explains that these luxurious roll-up bags are the perfect option for protecting high-end products and presenting them in a way that reflects their true value.

Visit

Dragonthorn Leatherworks

and check its

leather products here

.

Medical Leather Wrist Brace

Horween Leather Medical Wrist Brace by Dragonthorn Leatherworks

Other interesting products from

Dragonthorn Leatherworks

, crafted from premium Horween leather, are its medical leather wrist braces. Unlike other braces that last only a few weeks, this leather wrist brace is durable enough for daily wear without the need for frequent replacements. Additionally, it can support a damaged wrist properly while providing a stylish look.

Horween Leather Medical Wrist Brace Dragonthorn Leatherworks

Visit

Dragonthorn Leatherworks

and check its

leather products here

.

Minimalist Wallet

If you’re looking for a minimalist wallet you can use every day, expert leathercrafter

Rick Capps

offers a durable, classic option made from Horween leather.

The

"Humbolt" Minimalist Wallet

fits perfectly in your front pocket without feeling bulky or uncomfortable. Its minimalist design features two convenient pockets so you can carry your cards or cash in a practical, unique way.

Rick Capps Horween Leather Minimalist Wallet inside

Additionally, Capps offers a 10% discount to all active-duty or retired service members, veterans, and first responders.

Check

"Humbolt" Minimalist Wallet here

.

Lace Up Spring Open Toe Sandals

Noble Soles Horween Leather Sandals

With summer just around the corner, a pair of high-quality lace up sandals can truly elevate your outfit while keeping you comfortable. Made from Horween leather and paired with long-lasting Vibram soles, these stylish lace up sandals are the perfect choice for everyday wear. You’ll love to hear that each pair is handmade by one of our expert makers, Noble Soles, and you can also purchase colored laces to match your outfits.

Check this

Lace Up Spring Open Toe Sandals here

.

Final Thoughts

Horween leather is one of the best leathers produced in the United States. Even though it’s on the pricier side, many expert leathersmiths and customers still prefer Horween leather for its exceptional quality. If you’re looking for high-quality leather products that will last for decades and have a luxurious appearance, then Horween leather is a good choice.

Have a look at our

curated community of Makers

and find one-of-a-kind leather products that suit your preferences, needs, and style!



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