Custom Leatherwork: What “Bespoke” Really Means

Dave’s workshop in Boone, North Carolina, where sketches, tools, and raw hides turn into one-of-one pieces. Photo courtesy of Dragonthorn Leatherworks.

Custom Leatherwork.

“The art of actualizing unique one-of-a-kind creations out of leather to a client’s particular designs or wishes. Also known in certain circles as bespoke”.

People use the word “custom” in many ways. Sometimes it means you can pick a color, choose a size, and click “buy now.” That can be excellent work, but it is not the same thing as serious, purely custom leatherwork.

That said, when you search for a truly custom leathersmith, it can be harder than you'd expect. Given the way the web works, it is not always the highest quality that come up at the top of search engines. It helps to understand what “custom” actually means, and how a true custom leathersmith differs from other options.

What makes leatherwork “custom” (and why bespoke is different)

Long ago, all leatherwork was custom. Each piece was made by hand, one at a time, based upon a specific need. As people advanced, they learned they could make multiples of a particular item and have them ready for sale. It is much quicker to sell items that are ready to go.

But after a time, people would pass each other on the street and notice that the very nice handbag, case, or belt they had was also being worn by someone else. If you only needed the item to be practical and hold something, no worries. If you bought it to not only do something but also make a statement, that is a different issue entirely.

Bespoke (serious, purely custom leatherwork) sits in its own niche. It is created for you, to your design or wishes. It is unique, and rarely, if ever, will you find or see another leather item just like it.

Designed around the person, not the product listing

If you can click “buy now,” select your color, size, or shape, pay your money, and wait for your tracking number, you are usually in the world of made-to-order. That can still be great leatherwork. It is simply not the same thing as bespoke custom leatherwork.

With bespoke work, the piece starts with a problem to solve. A client says, “This would be perfect if it only did this…,” and the maker designs a one-of-one solution. If a client wants something similar to a past project, it is still made one at a time for them, it is never pulled from a shelf or stock inventory.

Pure custom is collaborative. The customer stays involved throughout, not because I want to make things complicated, but because the best work happens when we keep the target clear. Sometimes that means lots of questions, photos, and check-ins along the way. And because I do not run a retail storefront, I do not take walk-ins, everything starts by email, web, phone, text, or a referral.

If you’re thinking about commissioning a piece, the best first message is what you want to carry or solve, plus a few reference photos and rough dimensions.

A custom pocket carry organizer designed around exactly what the client wanted to carry. Photo courtesy of Dragonthorn Leatherworks.

Almost all leather goods are handmade in the literal sense. As far as I know, there is no machine where you insert leather in one end and out of the other end comes a shoulder bag. But “handmade” is not the same as “custom.” Custom should mean something different: designed and created just for you.

Custom begins with design: a sketch and layout plan before the leather is cut. Photo courtesy of Dragonthorn Leatherworks.

Leatherwork has many niches (and custom is its own)

Leather work comes in many different types and styles. Some people start in camp making kit belts, wallets, and such, usually laced together versus being stitched by hand or on an industrial machine. Definitely leather work, just not custom leather work.

Many excellent leathersmiths specialize in particular items. The biggest area currently is knife sheaths and gun holsters, although purses and wallets are gaining ground as well. Others do only belts, bags, pet collars, and it goes on and on. Everybody has a niche they enjoy, or where they are particularly strong.

Another reason makers stay in a niche is the equipment required. Specialty leather tools and machinery can get expensive, and some work takes even more specialized tools. Me? I like the challenge of working on just about anything.

Materials: the world is your oyster

I have used them all, but I particularly like vegetable-tanned leather. Think of an old, well-worn saddle. I like hides with range marks and cattle brands if I can find them. Every maker has a preference and a reason why they think a particular leather type is the best.

On the hardware and thread side, it depends on how you plan to use the item. I use bonded nylon thread in various thicknesses depending on the leather, the stress points, and which machine I am using. I have also used Nomex (it will not burn) and even Kevlar (it will not break at all).

Hardware? Again, what do you want me to use? I prefer solid brass and stainless steel. I have used gold and silver too, but the cost can be prohibitive. I refer back to the first sentence in this section. The world is your oyster.

Bespoke work takes time (and the details matter)

To be a custom leathersmith, you have to design the project, build templates, and then choose materials and methods that work together. That means making informed decisions about leather, lining, thread, glues, edging, and finishing so the final piece looks intentional and lasts.

Below are some of the building blocks that affect timelines and outcomes.

• Leather: There are many leather types: cow, horse, lizard, snake, frog, and more. Beyond the animal, tanning processes change everything. Some processes make leather butter soft, some more rigid, with many in between. Some make leather easy to wet-mold, while others do not mold at all. Thickness is measured in ounces (one ounce is roughly 1/64 of an inch). Then there is where on the animal the hide comes from, and overall quality. Most hides used by US leathersmiths come from the USA or Mexico, and there can be a big difference in quality. If you are looking for a perfect piece, you may need USA tanned hides, and even those are not completely perfect or inexpensive. For a large briefcase or portfolio, I may need to buy two to three hides to get enough leather without imperfections. Personally, I like imperfect hides, as range marks add individual character to the finished project.

• Dyes: Dyes come in many types: water-based, alcohol-based, and oil-based. I try to use nothing but Fiebing’s Professional Oil Dyes, because through experimentation I have found them to be among the best on the market. They dye well, streak less, and bleed little. Black is the hardest color to dye. It takes many coats and must dry completely between applications (24 to 36 hours in some cases). Why dye at all? Sometimes I buy leather already dyed. However, much of my work uses vegetable-tanned leather, which cuts well, edges best, and molds nearly perfectly. The challenge is that it often comes in a natural color, so dye becomes part of the process.

• Thread (and glue): Thread ties it all together, with a bit of glue in strategic locations. Thread sizes vary, as do materials. Most professional leathersmiths use bonded nylon: strong, smooth, and long-lasting. Specialty threads include Nomex (high heat resistance) and Kevlar (extremely strong). I commonly use sizes 69, 92, 135, 200, and 235 depending on the project. An artificial gut is also available and looks great, but it requires hand stitching because it will not run through a machine (at least not that I have figured out yet).

• Sewing: Hand stitching can be cost effective if you are doing it yourself, but expensive if you are hiring someone, because of time. To hand stitch, you have to assemble properly, mark stitch locations, punch holes (you do not want to try to punch a needle through 9 oz horse hide), and then stitch. With an industrial leather sewing machine, I can punch through up to 3/4 inch of leather in one stroke. Machines are expensive (a good one can run well over $1,500), but they can be more cost efficient for client work because they save time. In my shop I use a Tippmann Boss (hand operated), a Techsew 2700 electric (for thinner leather and long thread runs), and a 1909 Singer 29-4 (treadle powered, still running, with a long arm and rotating presser foot).

• Tools: Other tools are priceless. Knives, gouges, punches, groovers, scissors, and needles are only part of a custom leathersmith’s tool set. There is a lot to learn, and there are many good resources that go deeper.

The skill set is immense, and mistakes can be costly. When sewing cloth, you might be able to cut stitches and redo them. Once you punch through leather in the wrong place, you have a hole that you cannot cover up. Many errors mean doing it all over again.

Most custom leathersmiths work on multiple projects at a time. If you are dyeing leather and waiting for it to dry, or waiting for glue to set, you might as well start designing or cutting out the next project in line.

Case study: a Scout Carry sheath built from scratch

One project that shows the custom process clearly is a Scout Carry sheath built for a handmade knife and a very specific carry style. The goal was secure retention and quick access, while keeping the knife discreet and positioned exactly the way the client wanted.

This project sits on the more extreme “leatherwork imagineering” end of pure custom leatherwork. The customer had a high-end knife he wanted to carry on his walks in the woods. He didn’t want to advertise it, so he asked for a “behind the back” Scout Carry.

The challenge was to create a sheath that would securely hold the knife while still being easy to access. Easier said than done, right? To do this, you need a strong imagination, a mechanical mind, and an instinctive understanding of leather and its properties. Or you have to be a little crazy.

For this build I used 7 oz vegetable-tanned leather (dyed black) with black calfskin lining, and black size 235 bonded nylon thread for strength and aesthetics. For stability, I used two black anodized belt clips. Add to that a bit of Kydex, Chicago screws, a spring washer, a little 1.5 mm stainless steel wire, and a lot of thinking.

Sketch to concept: the customer’s needs become a working design plan.

Finished build: a purpose-built sheath created for one knife and one client.

The client especially loved the retention system and the overall fit and finish. He wrote:

“Dave, as a collector of one of a kind custom made knives, I am also hooked on one of a kind sheaths to carry my knives. I am overwhelmed with your work on this piece. The design, fit, finish and operation are flawless. I did not think I could find anyone that would work with me as you did on ideas and concepts. Wow, what an experience! Being involved in the day to day design and construction of this was half the fun. You are a talented artist, craftsman and engineer. Nicely done Dave, nicely done.”

-- Christopher A.

Custom Matters

Cost and value.

Price for a pure custom item is driven by materials, time, patterning, and handwork. As well, name branding can have a big part in this.

There are a few really good custom leathersmiths out there. There are also some not so good. You get what you pay for in this craft.

Is custom too expensive? True story: a customer contacts me for a project. I get some basic details and quote him back a price. They say, “What? Are you crazy? I can get that at the sports store for 75% less!”

Well, no. No, you can’t.

Custom makes sense when you cannot find the item anywhere else, when you just can’t find what you like, or when you appreciate fine custom work.

You don’t put a $1,000 knife in a cheap sheath. Same as putting regular pottery on a custom live-edge dinner table. It just isn’t done.

Fit, function, and durability.

This is where a custom leathersmith can really shine. With mass-produced goods, you have to fit the product. It is not made to fit you. It is made to fit everybody. Custom fit and layout are key. If it fits, it gets used more. No “I left it in the car because it’s uncomfortable” excuses.

Durability usually comes down to leather quality, stitching, and hardware. Not all mass-produced goods are bad, but those are the common failure points. Use good leather, good thread, stitch well, and choose the best hardware possible within the client’s budget. Then take care of your leather. Keep it clean, conditioned, and treated properly.

Custom leatherwork is as much an art as a craft.

With the growth of globalization (China, Taiwan, Vietnam, India, Pakistan, and more), leather goods are everywhere: shoes, bags, belts, wallets, and cases. Many are very affordable. But mass production often brings back the “same thing” syndrome.

What can be done? Support your custom leathersmith. The point is not that it has to be me. The point is that you can have an item made exactly the way and with the precise specifications you desire.

***

Glossary of Leatherwork Terms

Leather prototyping:

The early phase of bespoke work where ideas become real. Sketches, patterns, trial fits, and test builds that help cut through the noise and get to true pure custom.

Bespoke leatherwork:

A more refined term for what true custom makers do. An “old school” word meaning made to a particular customer’s wishes.

Custom leatherwork:

Once meant a distinct level of leatherworking, but it’s now used broadly across the internet. A good reason to ask how the piece is designed and whether it can be ordered from a product page.

Prototype / patterning:

The templates and trial builds that turn an idea into a workable design before the final one-off is made.

Vegetable-tanned leather:

Leather tanned with plant-based tannins. It cuts cleanly, edges beautifully, and can be molded and dyed.

Bonded nylon thread:

Strong, durable thread commonly used in professional leatherwork. Size varies by application.

Search tip: try both “leatherwork” and “leather work,” and add “custom” or “bespoke” in front of the item you want made (for example, bespoke sheath, custom belt, custom bag).

About the maker

Dave Hauser is the custom leathersmith behind Dragonthorn Leatherworks in Boone, North Carolina. He’s been working with leather for 57 years, including 26 years as a full-time professional. He’ll be the first to joke that he’s “old,” but his work shows the kind of skill that only comes with time.

Dave at the bench: designing and shaping leather by hand, one piece at a time.

Dave started learning leatherwork as a boy, and years later sharpened that craft while running a high-end knife shop, where customers regularly needed well-built custom sheaths for knives that didn’t come with one. Entirely self-taught and a mentor to others, he eventually moved both home and workshop to a peaceful mountainside cabin in Boone. Today, he still designs and builds one-of-one pieces, one project at a time.

Where to find Dave’s work

To view more of Dave’s custom work (and inquire about commissioning a piece), visit

Maker Marketplace

or

Dave's Website

.

This post is adapted for Maker Marketplace from Dave Hauser’s original article, with permission. Original source: https://dragonleather.net/custom-leatherwork/

All photos courtesy of Dragonthorn Leatherwork.